Time is Money: Why I Love (and Hate) Luxury Watches

I have had a hot-and-cold relationship with watches for almost my entire adult life. My introduction to the world of horology came in the spring of 2015: I was about to graduate college and wanted to buy myself a small gift in celebration. What better than a watch which would mark the transition from my school career to my working career, complementing my new professional wardrobe and serving as a physical reminder of what I had achieved? 

I almost immediately realized that there was far more to the watch world than I had ever expected. Even ignoring the more in-depth topics like complications, in-house movements, and brand histories, I simply could not believe how many styles and brands there were to choose from. As a complete watch novice I knew that there were brands like Seiko, Casio, and Rolex, and I assumed there must be a good number of other brands I was unaware of. It turned out that was like me knowing the molecules of water and salt and assuming there must be a good number of other molecules I was unaware of: the amount of watches to research and view seemed almost infinite. Microbrands, established players, and the gamut from homage to full-on imitation appeared on my computer screen in row after row of overwhelming shopping opportunities.

Of course, there was something that else that came with the watch world that rocked my still-broke college student psyche: the prices. Again, I knew that brands like Rolex were very expensive and were often viewed as an “I made it” type of purchase. As it turned out, my definition of “very expensive” and the watch world’s definition were wildly different. Not only that, but compared to some other brands I was being introduced to like Audemars Piguet, JLC, and A. Lange & Sohne, Rolex was downright affordable. 

I must be missing something I remember thinking to myself. How could one watch with a steel bracelet, automatic movement, and no complications cost $100, while another one could cost $2,000, and yet another could be over $8,000? To be honest, I still sometimes have that same thought when I see new watches coming out for 6-figure retails or come across someone posting on r/Watches with a title like “got into watches 4 months ago, how’s my collection?” while showcasing three Daytonas, a Nautilus, and a Royal Oak. In a purely logical sense the utility of a six-figure watch is not any higher than that of a $1000 watch and is probably much lower than that of a $300 smartwatch. In an illogical sense though, the heart wants what the heart wants. And boy, do watch brands know how to make you want something shiny.